Wiston Papers

Is this really a soufflé?  That's news to me

“What’s wrong with journalism?”  As a former journalism professor and practitioner, I hear that question a lot.  Unfortunately, I wish I were able to declare strongly and sincerely “Nothing is wrong with the craft.  We’re doing exactly what we should be doing.”

The truth, of course, is all too apparent.  The media are not doing well.  Let’s go into the kitchen to explain what is wrong.

Assume that the journalist is a chef.  One who is preparing a traditional soufflé.  It’s not an easy creation--nor should it be if done carefully.  Here are the precise ingredients and steps.

--2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

--1 cup whole milk

--2 and ½ tablespoons unsalted butter

--3 tablespoons unbleached flour

--1/2 teaspoon paprika

--1/2 teaspoon salt

--pinch of ground nutmeg

--4 large egg yolks

--5 large egg whites

--1 cup coarsely grated Gruyere cheese

--Place rack in lower-third of 400-degree  oven

--Butter 6-cup souffle dish

--Add Parmesan cheese & coat sides and bottom

--Warm milk in saucepan over medium heat to steam

--Melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat

--Add flour, whisk mixture to foam, but not to brown

--Remove saucepan from heat and let cool 1 minute

--Pour in warm milk, whisk until smooth

--Resume heating, cooking and whisking until thick

--Remove from heat, whisk in paprika, salt and nutmeg

--Add 1 egg yolk at a time, whisk to blend each one

--Scrape souffle base into large bowl

--Cool to lukewarm, cover and let stand at room temp

--In second bowl, beat egg whites until stiff but not dry

--Fold ¼ of whites into room temperature souffle base to lighten

--Fold other whites in 2 additions, gradually sprinkle Gruyere cheese

--Transfer butter to prepared dish

--Place dish in oven and reduce temperature to 375 degrees

--Keep oven door shut for first 20 minutes while baking

--Bake until souffle is puffy and golden brown on top.

--Serve immediately.

The careful, traditional chef/journalist will painstakingly observe each step to assure quality control.  And his diners/audience will be assured a product worth waiting for.  A feast prepared without constant distractions or demands that he prepare multiple other morsels while working on the primary gourmet delight.

However, here is how many contemporary reporters prepare this same recipe because they are competing with other chefs also cooking soufflés.  The most important thing is to finish first. But in the meantime, you believe you must respond to hungry customers already sitting at the table, unable to wait for a well-prepared feast, anxious for frequent samples of what you’re cooking.

TWITTER  Let everyone know that you’re making a soufflé.

--Quickly add a little grated cheese.  

--Splash in about a cup of skim milk

FACEBOOK Tell your audience why you chose a soufflé.

--Approximately 2-3 tablespoons of butter

--About 3 tablespoons flour of some kind

--Toss in a little paprika, salt and nutmeg

--Separate 5 egg yolks and white if you’ve got time

--Fill a cup with a second kind grated cheese

PINTEREST  Take a moment to post some pictures of you preparing your soufflé.

--Preheat the oven to 375 degrees so it warms faster

--Rapidly slap some butter on a souffle dish

--Spread your first cheese around dish quickly

--Warm some milk until it seems about right; can’t wait to steam

--Melt butter at same time in saucepan, flour and whisk for a couple of minutes

--Remove saucepan, pour in warm milk and whisk

--Recook for a couple of minutes

YOUTUBE  Record and post online each step you took.

--Throw in your paprika, salt, nutmeg and egg yolks as you whisk at same time

--Hurredly scrape souffle base into a large bowl

--Let cool a little bit while you quickly beat egg whites and cheese in another bowl until almost stiff

--Put this batter rapidly into prepared dish and into oven

--Raise temperature to  400 degrees to speed cooking

--Remove and serve ASAP

Congratulations!  You are the first chef/journalist to serve your soufflé; you beat the competition.  

Don’t worry that it doesn’t really look or taste like a soufflé.  Or that it isn’t very filling or satisfying.

We’ll understand.  You were too busy doing other things to really follow the recipe exactly.  And along the way you had to toss some scraps of your uncooked soufflé to your waiting diners/audience...anxious for any tidbit or tease of more.

Tomorrow you’ll apologize for the mistake you made in the recipe, of course.  But that’s OK.  You served your customers first today.  What more could we possibly want?

Steve Coon

February 21, 2013